Prada SpA has found itself in hot water in India after launching a limited-edition collection of sandals inspired by the traditional Kolhapuri chappals, which are handcrafted leather footwear. This move comes after the brand faced backlash last year for showcasing similar designs without acknowledging their origins. The new collection, while made in India and developed in collaboration with state-backed industry bodies, is priced at approximately $900 per pair, significantly higher than the traditional Kolhapuri sandals that retail for around $10 to $30. This disparity has led to accusations of cultural appropriation rather than genuine homage.

Despite India granting Geographical Indication (GI) status to Kolhapuri chappals in 2019, which links products to their region of origin, the enforcement of such protections remains weak compared to Western goods. The lack of robust industry support and legal frameworks has hindered the economic value of traditional crafts. As consumer awareness grows, there is a pressing need for India to strengthen its systems for protecting artisans and their crafts, ensuring fair compensation and attribution in collaborations with global brands. Until these underlying economic issues are addressed, the cycle of outrage and appropriation is likely to continue.